Nefeni Cosplay
Tips & Tricks! Vol. 1 - Worbla!
Since I get many questions about worbla across my social media platforms, I figured I'd combine them all into one place so you don't have to go hunting for your answers. (I've done the work for you!) If you don't see a question here, go ahead and ask it in the comments below! Happy crafting!
What is that material you use for your (insert armor part here)?
Mainly I use a thermoplastic material called Worbla. It is moldable when heated up and retains it's shape when it cools off. Pretty neat stuff! But when working with heat, always be careful! It's also however pretty flimsy on it's own. In order to provide worbla with the support it needs, I use the sandwich method (which is founded and popularized by Kamui Cosplay).
The second component to this method is craft foam. I use 2mm thickness, which is the 17 x 11 sheets (or a long roll) you can find in any craft store or online. For the detailing, I always use a double layer of worbla to make it stand out.
How do you get worbla to look smooth?
I did some experimentation and research on the material before I started using it. Worbla takes around 90 to 95 degrees fahrenheit to start activating. My current heat gun produces 1200 watts and has two setting, low (750 degrees) and high (1000 degrees). To make the sandwich method, I use the high setting and keep it 3 to 4 inches away from the worbla. When I haven't turned on my heat gun for the day yet, it takes around one minute to activate the first piece into a fully moldable state. Then after I place the craft foam and the other piece of worbla down, it will take less than a minute to heat this piece (maybe around 40 seconds).
Make sure to move the heat gun around a lot. Make circling motions, go back and forth! When you press the worbla together, use a piece of craft foam to do so. Not only will this prevent your fingers from burning, a wide piece of craft foam will help you push the worbla together to make the sandwich peices more even and smooth.
How do you not get any air bubbles with the sandwich method?
I do! No matter how hard you try, you will eventually get air bubbles while handling the sandwiched piece in it's moldable state. If you try to remove the air bubbles right after you finish sandwiching the worbla together, you can get some ugly indents. So I cut off the excess worbla first, then gather up the air bubbles into one spot and take a small pin and poke a hole in the center and then take a piece of craft foam to push the air out.
At this point, if you worked quickly enough, the worbla should still be warm and moldable. If not, you can put your heat gun to the low setting and give the worbla a couple of passes to reactivate it. (You know when you've overheated your worbla when the surface is a very pale brown color, almost white. Try not to touch it as you can burn yourself and leave it alone to cool before handling it again)
How do you join two pieces of sandiched worbla seamlessly?
While making the other worbla sandwiches, the previous ones I made have cooled and hardened. In order to heat up the worbla again without getting air bubbles, I use the high setting, but from further away at around 5 to 6 inches. I can use the low setting from 3 to 4 inches away, but that takes a long time. Just be careful with the high setting and you should be ok. You should slowly see the worbla turn from a pale brown color to a rich brown color and the surface should be very sticky and the peice should be fully moldable again. I work with two pieces at a time and then take the seams and line it up slowly from one end to the other and press it together with craft foam.Joining seams over a worbla base is a bit tricker though, read on...
My details falls off my armor after a while...why does this happen?
In order for worbla to permanently attach to each other, both pieces/sides of the worbla need to be at that 90 to 95 degree fahrenheit activation temperature. While my worbla piece is moldable, i turn my heat gun on low and pass it over my worbla base a few times. I know it's enough when the surface of the base is slightly tacky to the touch. That is when I put the details on my base, whether it's a fully heated accent sandwiched piece or a couple of tiny heated strips.
How do you get clean lines?
Before I commit to slapping a piece on my base, I heat the piece up and drape it over my base without pushing it down. It will stick to my base, but won't be permanent. With a little bit of force, I can remove it and make any adjustments I need. After that, I heat up the base as I mentioned in the answer above and press it down. Then I take out a sturdy stick with a flat edge like a butter knife or a scissor edge and use the flat edge to make a straight line or to press it down without leaving finger marks.
OMG! I made a mistake and want to remove it! What do I do?
Once worbla hardens, it's tough as a rock! Usually, once you press the worbla together, it's going to be hard to remove. When that happens to me, I put my heat gun to low and pass it over a few times and try to yank it out again. I keep doing that until it finally detaches. Then I heat up the surface of my base and use craft foam to smooth it out again. This won't work if the worbla is too hot as it is more prone to tearing, so don't overdo the heat gun. It also won't work if the bond was strong and part of the worbla tears, so be careful when doing this.